Pleiku....Escape from English speaking Vietnamese

Central Highlands

Pleiku

Arrival in Pleiku Airport was site of the U.S. Air Base during the war. Not too much had changed other than we didn't have to wear Olive Drab clothes and we could go anywhere we wanted. The town on the other hand had been totally destroyed by the North Vietnamese and only the name was familiar to Mike. The town definitely had no old buildings or small alleys, but big wide streets and boxy buildings. Busy, busy and all of a sudden very few people that speak English. Better yet, with a booming tourist industry, there was not a map of the city to be found.....guess I'm still old school and need that smartphone. It does make for a bit more of a challenge.

Downtown Pleiku, with space needle in the foreground
& our hotel in the background....The big one, Duc Long 2,
Great views our room on the 18th floor.

One of the great surprises for me in the central highlands was that this province (Gai Lai) is a major coffee, producer. Vietnam has some great coffee and so far in Pleiku it's been even better.

I couldn't have said it better...

Individual coffee filters drying and ready for the evening rush.

Our guide for the day, Le.
Note she is standing one step up.....

(Mike's)Another fulfilling day!  WOW !!!!!!  This morning, we took a tour with a guide and cab driver to several places in Pleiku.  Our guide, Le was born in 1969, the year before I was here.  She was born in one of the Montagnard (minority mountain people) villages that are all around Pleiku.






 (Mike;'s) So she took us to her village to see the rural life of the non-Vietnamese people.

Proud of the baby and her produce.

The Montagnard people are known for their clean produce and meats. A truly organic focus and you can't get much more local.....During the American War the Monangard tribes were caught in the middle, not really caring what the war was about, just leave us out of it. Today they are still treated as 2nd class citizens by the Vietnamese. Regardless, the are a very beautiful and proud people...

African/Montagnard lady and her produce.

The Montagnard were no slackers when it came to smiles

   

Montagnard Kids watching the tall strangers

pots & pans sales lady on her scooter.

Coffee beans drying, Robusta, Arabica beans

(Mike's) We saw all of the farm animals (water buffalo, cows, chickens, pigs, etc.) and the crops that they grow (rice, bananas, pineapple, many kinds of coffee beans, and huge forests of rubber trees).  The  photos shows the normal Montagnard home from what I remember in 1970, but now many are more substantial to avoid constant upkeep of the grass roofs.  We visited the guide's uncle and family, and enjoyed the tour around their newer elevated home.  Very basic, but they do have electricity, which comes from a new hydro dam.

Le & Mike at the traditional community building

Le's uncle & Mike with some coffee beans.

nap time

water buffalo hanging out...

spare time basket weaving for the men
while the women are out in the fields.

Offering to cook breakfast.......no takers.

Dr

Carved faces outside communal Montagnard grave site.

coffee plants around village

(Mike's)  When we arrived back at our hotel, we went to lunch across the street and had some great pork chops with rice.  Then we walked over to the Catholic Church and Orphanage, where several GI's in my unit and I (in 1970) had their parents and friends in the States send clothing and money.  Sister Madalaine was wonderful, but didn't know much English, only French and Vietnamese.  The 50 children there range in age from 1 month to 16 years old, and are a great bunch of kids, who are so eager to learn and meet new people.  Stretch and I had some really great interaction with the older children, who are learning English very well.  We will go back to see them tomorrow.

Quick get a photo of those guys

The whole group at the Sao Mai Orphange

Mike showing them pictures of California.

We were invited back for dinner and another go round of playing with the kids. Very fun, but exhausting....










(Mike's) Just came back from 3 hours with the children at the orphanage.  They know their English words and how to spell them, with very good penmanship, but don't have anyone to help them pronounce the works.  So Stretch and I were going over words and pictures to have them sound out.  Also, I sang many songs to them, especially Christmas songs that they knew most of the words.  What a joy to be them and see their interest and enthusiasm.  Even the shy ones slowly came around.  We are having a late lunch, and then go back to join them for dinner at 6 pm. .

Photo, take another photo

We acted as portable playground equipment and to practice
Engilish

Buy my sticky rice or I'll just stare at you.
Her persistence paid off 

Two big kids, playing with the little ones.













Back on the streets of Pleiku, we wandered and found great food and lots of "Hello, how are you?" and then giggles....the limit of their English.

Mobile tropical fish salesman, all mounted on her bike

Off to the Montangard town of Kon Tum tomorrow by bus, only about an hour and a half.

More to come.

Xin Chao...... Da Nang

Looking for Smiles

Causing belly-laughs due to our height and bad Vietnamese

After a big day at Friendship Village with all the kids and veterans, we arranged for a flight to Da Nang. Luckily by waiting out  the typhoon that never hit we were able to visit the Village. The next morning we met with Chuck, Panky & Sheelu for breakfast and a last chat. 

Mike & Sheelu chatting about
Friendship Village

David Thomas & Mike

While we were there a group of artists doing pictures of the war were also there and the person leading the group (David), just so happened to have been stationed in Pleiku the year prior to Mike. Both Combat Engineers. same office (probably the same chair), same co-workers, same spot in the highlands of Vietnam. Small world. Great to see them both chat about their past.

 Always a sad departure from the hotel staff. Trang was
a delight and kept us laughing...

So finally Trang lead us away from our little hotel in the alley and made sure we were on our way to the airport. After several delays we finally made it to Da Nang. On my previous visit to Vietnam, I was fortunate to meet Chuck Palazzo an Vet who has made his home in Da Nang. One of his pet projects in DAVA (Da Nang Association for Victims of Agent Orange). He is also involved in Veterans for Peace which has a chapter in Da Nang. I definitely wanted him to meet Mike.

Chuck and two directors of DAVA 

The difference between Friendship Village and DAVA is that DAVA set up centers in the villages surrounding Da Nang to make it easier to bus the children to their homes at night. Pretty much trying to teach skills to the kids and helping with medical treatment.

Peace boat in front of DAVA Center

Doesn't matter where you are the kids are great

All smiles

more smiles

working the sewing machine

Mike at the craft table

everybody wants a photo

A great morning with the kids and chatting with the directors, as with most programs, a shortage of cash and volunteers minimizes their effectiveness, but incredible resolve to help those in need.

Back in Da Nang we strolled about the beach and got pretty wet from the afternoon rain showers. But when in Da Nang and on the beach, best to enjoy the incredible seafood.

Next morning, Chuck recommended we visit the Cham Museum, which surprisingly enough deals with the Cham Dynasty that was in central Vietnam from the 3rd to the 17th century and was heavily Hindu influence in all their sculpture and religion.  

Ganpati (Ganesh) hanging out in Da Nang....

A couple of South Vietnamese Veterans talked us into
rides on their Cyclos. This guy was the same age as Mike.

Not only was he quite the talker,
he gave a great tour.

Most of the South Vietnamese found it difficult to get by after the war due to the fact that the North Vietnamese were none too thrilled with them helping the Americans. So finding a job, getting their kids in school was tough. One of the few jobs available was the Cyclo driver.  Funny, the North seems to have forgiven the Americans, but not the South Vietnamese.....Anyway he took us to a couple of temples, the first a Buddhist temple and then to another that looked like a Buddhist temple on the outside but it's shrine was a large Eye. The Cao Dai (The Holy See) mixes several religions (Hindu, Buddhist, Christian and Islam). Beautiful Eye......

Big Happy Buddha

The altar during a service of Cao Dai

Thao was our hostess and cashier and
Becky and I met her last year

After the Cyclos ride we had the guys drop us at a restaurant that I visited in Feb. with Becky, "The Bread of Life". Great food and almost all the staff is deaf. The program teaches them Vietnamese sign and a job skill. Once again, great  energy and huge smiles.








The walk back to the Hotel led us across the Dragon Bridge and a close up of the head that breathes fire on Sat. and Sun.

Dragon Head sans fire.....

A great farewell from the staff at the Sea Wonder Hotel,
before our flight to Pleiku.

On to Pleiku, were Mike was stationed in 1970 in the central highlands. Should be a little different........

Any interest in DAVA here is the link http://dava.danang.gov.vn/

Or Bread of Life, http://breadoflifedanang.com

Ha Noi - Opening a new door to perception

Get me out of LA

No flight out of Los Angeles International is complete without a walk on the beach while avoiding traffic grid lock. This flight was no different and a stroll down the Strand in Manhattan Beach was just the ticket.

Mike & Ginny walked the Strand while I walked the sand.

 LAX newly restored International Terminal is pretty glitzy, just an extension of Hollyweird and along with that the TSA agents were even friendly, which made for a surreal wait for our plane.

For a 15 hour flight to Guangzhou and having the exit
 row, we arrived in pretty good shape. For our last
 15 minutes we were treated to In flight Yoga...only
 on China Southern Airways.  A 4 hour lay over with
 a 1.5 hour flight to Ha Noi.
First visual for our arrival into Ha Noi was a large US military plane parked in front of a very large red flag with the hammer & sickle on it. Times have changed.

Fun watching the big eyes on Mike and seeing his reaction to everything around, the traffic, the jumble of electrical wires, the old buildings, the food and the friendly people.....priceless.

swarming motorbikes

Hanoi lineman

Everything is "good price & my mother sews it"......
Sure it is.

Temple of the Golden Turtle.....

Temple of the Golden Beverage....reward for risking our lives
in traffic...

.

XOI-sticky rice, Pho-flat noodle soup, Ga-Chicken
great way to start the day

Hello...You so tall......

      Breakfast Bun on tiny stools and
                 too much legs

Turtle Tower on Hoan Kiem Lake

                                                                                 
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       

(Mike's) We took a walking tour of the city.  Merging with the constant motor-bike and bicycle traffic that never stops in any direction, pedestrians (and us) would even cross the streets in the middle of intersections (no traffic lights or signs anywhere), with vehicles passing within inches in all 4 directions (even driving on the wrong side of the roads).  Every type of riders -- professional business people, families of 4 & more,  students, trades people,  large cargo hauling - all on the standard 2-wheel motor bikes & bicycles.  Most cars are small taxis, but we did see a newer Bentley hogging the space of a dozen motor bikes.  Most places you had to walk in the streets, because the sidewalks were taken up with masses of parked motor bikes, as far as the eyes can see.  Never saw any angry drivers, or accidents -- just observant and patient drivers.  Walking around the city was great, seeing and visiting with the wonderful, happy people.  We went to the large lake in  the center of the city, and walked  around it, with gigantic trees and beautiful flowers.  A quiet reprieve from the crowded and busy city around it.  At the end of our walk, we went up to the 6th floor of a building of restaurants stacked on top of each other, to have a light dinner and a bottle of "Ha Noi" beer
                                                                                                                                                                           

Ao Dai...traditional women's formal dress......great for posing
at the Temple of Literature.

Always kids saying Hi and these two sang Mike a song

Who knew that they would have a park
and statue of John Lennon in Hanoi?

Coffee & Tea before the storm that never came...School's
and some businesses stayed closed for Monday the 11th
to wait out the storm and potential flooding from Typhoon
Haiyan. It was a whole different town without the traffic.

Met with Chuck, Panky & Sheelu. Filming Mike talk
about his experiences. 1st time I ever heard him talk
so openly.....

                                                                                      Chuck is an amazing "go to guy" for Vets in Vietnam and has been in Hanoi for 18 years working with Vets and Vietnamese with projects for Agent Orange, UXO (unexploded ordinance) and others. Truly a Vet that has made a difference.
Panky is making a film about Vets returning to Vietnam and Sheelu is her friend/assistant.

Together we all went out to Friendship Village to see one of the projects started up by an American Vet (George Mizo) who was also affected by Agent Orange. This Village helps children affected by helping them learn crafts or skills (now 4th generation affected). They also give the Vietnamese Vets a place to come for treatment and socializing for a month at a time.            
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               

Panky, Sheelu & Mike chatting and filming.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 

Friendship Village...A gesture of Friendship and Reconciliation
Well done George Mizo

Learning the English alphabet...about time I learned

working puzzles

(Mike's)     Had a 45 min cab ride out of Hanoi to Friendship Village and were taken on a tour of the classrooms where the older and younger children were doing beautiful crafts to sell to support Friendship Village.  No matter what their physical and/or mental condition, they were all smiles and so glad to see us all and interact with us in their projects.  There are also older North Viet vets (my age & older) who come to Friendship Village for a month to be checked out for various conditions, and a change to relax and rest up before leaving, to make room for other incoming vets.  We met each one of them, who were like being reunited with old friends. 

Long has been with Friendship Village for a while, now
30 years he now is an instructor for computer skills,
Incredible spirit and now my Facebook friend.... 

beautiful embroidery work 

Learning sewing skills for deaf & mute, looks like they
already learned how to pose....

This gal had incredible manual dexterity while making
note cards.

The Viet Vets giving us a most welcoming experience.
Their glow & grace was truly amazing

Panky captured it all and was encouraged by all.

More photos with the tall guys....

 Watching Mike interact with North Vietnamese Vets
 was heart warming. They told Mike...."Peace is Better".....
words to live by.

                       


.Each classroom we entered we were met with big smiles and bigger Hellos. No better welcomes could be had.
























































































Now it's off to Da Nang and meet more Vets from both sides of this fence. A fence that  doesn't even appear to exist in this forgiving land.



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