Xin Chao...... Da Nang

Looking for Smiles

Causing belly-laughs due to our height and bad Vietnamese

After a big day at Friendship Village with all the kids and veterans, we arranged for a flight to Da Nang. Luckily by waiting out  the typhoon that never hit we were able to visit the Village. The next morning we met with Chuck, Panky & Sheelu for breakfast and a last chat. 

Mike & Sheelu chatting about
Friendship Village

David Thomas & Mike

While we were there a group of artists doing pictures of the war were also there and the person leading the group (David), just so happened to have been stationed in Pleiku the year prior to Mike. Both Combat Engineers. same office (probably the same chair), same co-workers, same spot in the highlands of Vietnam. Small world. Great to see them both chat about their past.

 Always a sad departure from the hotel staff. Trang was
a delight and kept us laughing...

So finally Trang lead us away from our little hotel in the alley and made sure we were on our way to the airport. After several delays we finally made it to Da Nang. On my previous visit to Vietnam, I was fortunate to meet Chuck Palazzo an Vet who has made his home in Da Nang. One of his pet projects in DAVA (Da Nang Association for Victims of Agent Orange). He is also involved in Veterans for Peace which has a chapter in Da Nang. I definitely wanted him to meet Mike.

Chuck and two directors of DAVA 

The difference between Friendship Village and DAVA is that DAVA set up centers in the villages surrounding Da Nang to make it easier to bus the children to their homes at night. Pretty much trying to teach skills to the kids and helping with medical treatment.

Peace boat in front of DAVA Center

Doesn't matter where you are the kids are great

All smiles

more smiles

working the sewing machine

Mike at the craft table

everybody wants a photo

A great morning with the kids and chatting with the directors, as with most programs, a shortage of cash and volunteers minimizes their effectiveness, but incredible resolve to help those in need.

Back in Da Nang we strolled about the beach and got pretty wet from the afternoon rain showers. But when in Da Nang and on the beach, best to enjoy the incredible seafood.

Next morning, Chuck recommended we visit the Cham Museum, which surprisingly enough deals with the Cham Dynasty that was in central Vietnam from the 3rd to the 17th century and was heavily Hindu influence in all their sculpture and religion.  

Ganpati (Ganesh) hanging out in Da Nang....

A couple of South Vietnamese Veterans talked us into
rides on their Cyclos. This guy was the same age as Mike.

Not only was he quite the talker,
he gave a great tour.

Most of the South Vietnamese found it difficult to get by after the war due to the fact that the North Vietnamese were none too thrilled with them helping the Americans. So finding a job, getting their kids in school was tough. One of the few jobs available was the Cyclo driver.  Funny, the North seems to have forgiven the Americans, but not the South Vietnamese.....Anyway he took us to a couple of temples, the first a Buddhist temple and then to another that looked like a Buddhist temple on the outside but it's shrine was a large Eye. The Cao Dai (The Holy See) mixes several religions (Hindu, Buddhist, Christian and Islam). Beautiful Eye......

Big Happy Buddha

The altar during a service of Cao Dai

Thao was our hostess and cashier and
Becky and I met her last year

After the Cyclos ride we had the guys drop us at a restaurant that I visited in Feb. with Becky, "The Bread of Life". Great food and almost all the staff is deaf. The program teaches them Vietnamese sign and a job skill. Once again, great  energy and huge smiles.








The walk back to the Hotel led us across the Dragon Bridge and a close up of the head that breathes fire on Sat. and Sun.

Dragon Head sans fire.....

A great farewell from the staff at the Sea Wonder Hotel,
before our flight to Pleiku.

On to Pleiku, were Mike was stationed in 1970 in the central highlands. Should be a little different........

Any interest in DAVA here is the link http://dava.danang.gov.vn/

Or Bread of Life, http://breadoflifedanang.com

Ha Noi - Opening a new door to perception

Get me out of LA

No flight out of Los Angeles International is complete without a walk on the beach while avoiding traffic grid lock. This flight was no different and a stroll down the Strand in Manhattan Beach was just the ticket.

Mike & Ginny walked the Strand while I walked the sand.

 LAX newly restored International Terminal is pretty glitzy, just an extension of Hollyweird and along with that the TSA agents were even friendly, which made for a surreal wait for our plane.

For a 15 hour flight to Guangzhou and having the exit
 row, we arrived in pretty good shape. For our last
 15 minutes we were treated to In flight Yoga...only
 on China Southern Airways.  A 4 hour lay over with
 a 1.5 hour flight to Ha Noi.
First visual for our arrival into Ha Noi was a large US military plane parked in front of a very large red flag with the hammer & sickle on it. Times have changed.

Fun watching the big eyes on Mike and seeing his reaction to everything around, the traffic, the jumble of electrical wires, the old buildings, the food and the friendly people.....priceless.

swarming motorbikes

Hanoi lineman

Everything is "good price & my mother sews it"......
Sure it is.

Temple of the Golden Turtle.....

Temple of the Golden Beverage....reward for risking our lives
in traffic...

.

XOI-sticky rice, Pho-flat noodle soup, Ga-Chicken
great way to start the day

Hello...You so tall......

      Breakfast Bun on tiny stools and
                 too much legs

Turtle Tower on Hoan Kiem Lake

                                                                                 
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       

(Mike's) We took a walking tour of the city.  Merging with the constant motor-bike and bicycle traffic that never stops in any direction, pedestrians (and us) would even cross the streets in the middle of intersections (no traffic lights or signs anywhere), with vehicles passing within inches in all 4 directions (even driving on the wrong side of the roads).  Every type of riders -- professional business people, families of 4 & more,  students, trades people,  large cargo hauling - all on the standard 2-wheel motor bikes & bicycles.  Most cars are small taxis, but we did see a newer Bentley hogging the space of a dozen motor bikes.  Most places you had to walk in the streets, because the sidewalks were taken up with masses of parked motor bikes, as far as the eyes can see.  Never saw any angry drivers, or accidents -- just observant and patient drivers.  Walking around the city was great, seeing and visiting with the wonderful, happy people.  We went to the large lake in  the center of the city, and walked  around it, with gigantic trees and beautiful flowers.  A quiet reprieve from the crowded and busy city around it.  At the end of our walk, we went up to the 6th floor of a building of restaurants stacked on top of each other, to have a light dinner and a bottle of "Ha Noi" beer
                                                                                                                                                                           

Ao Dai...traditional women's formal dress......great for posing
at the Temple of Literature.

Always kids saying Hi and these two sang Mike a song

Who knew that they would have a park
and statue of John Lennon in Hanoi?

Coffee & Tea before the storm that never came...School's
and some businesses stayed closed for Monday the 11th
to wait out the storm and potential flooding from Typhoon
Haiyan. It was a whole different town without the traffic.

Met with Chuck, Panky & Sheelu. Filming Mike talk
about his experiences. 1st time I ever heard him talk
so openly.....

                                                                                      Chuck is an amazing "go to guy" for Vets in Vietnam and has been in Hanoi for 18 years working with Vets and Vietnamese with projects for Agent Orange, UXO (unexploded ordinance) and others. Truly a Vet that has made a difference.
Panky is making a film about Vets returning to Vietnam and Sheelu is her friend/assistant.

Together we all went out to Friendship Village to see one of the projects started up by an American Vet (George Mizo) who was also affected by Agent Orange. This Village helps children affected by helping them learn crafts or skills (now 4th generation affected). They also give the Vietnamese Vets a place to come for treatment and socializing for a month at a time.            
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               

Panky, Sheelu & Mike chatting and filming.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 

Friendship Village...A gesture of Friendship and Reconciliation
Well done George Mizo

Learning the English alphabet...about time I learned

working puzzles

(Mike's)     Had a 45 min cab ride out of Hanoi to Friendship Village and were taken on a tour of the classrooms where the older and younger children were doing beautiful crafts to sell to support Friendship Village.  No matter what their physical and/or mental condition, they were all smiles and so glad to see us all and interact with us in their projects.  There are also older North Viet vets (my age & older) who come to Friendship Village for a month to be checked out for various conditions, and a change to relax and rest up before leaving, to make room for other incoming vets.  We met each one of them, who were like being reunited with old friends. 

Long has been with Friendship Village for a while, now
30 years he now is an instructor for computer skills,
Incredible spirit and now my Facebook friend.... 

beautiful embroidery work 

Learning sewing skills for deaf & mute, looks like they
already learned how to pose....

This gal had incredible manual dexterity while making
note cards.

The Viet Vets giving us a most welcoming experience.
Their glow & grace was truly amazing

Panky captured it all and was encouraged by all.

More photos with the tall guys....

 Watching Mike interact with North Vietnamese Vets
 was heart warming. They told Mike...."Peace is Better".....
words to live by.

                       


.Each classroom we entered we were met with big smiles and bigger Hellos. No better welcomes could be had.
























































































Now it's off to Da Nang and meet more Vets from both sides of this fence. A fence that  doesn't even appear to exist in this forgiving land.



http://www.vietnamfriendship.org/wordpress/get-involved/visit-the-village

The Sojourn Continues..............On Hwy 395 to Vietnam?

Escape from Zombie Land

After barely escaping from a crowd of zombies and even scarier group of Michael Jacksons that had invaded our house. I flew into Reno and was reunited with AWV (Average White Van) that was parked about 3 blocks from the Reno Airport. 

Within a 1/2 hour of landing, I was rolling down 395 heading for California City to my brother's house. The same place that I spent 2 weeks finishing out the interior of the AWV back in late June. While I was there working on the van, I shared the photos of Vietnam that Becky & I took last spring. Those photos, a few stories and a guide book for Vietnam, helped convince my brother Mike to return for the first time since 1970. This trip down 395 is to meet him and fly on to Hanoi on Nov. 5.  

First stop is the Travertine Hot Springs outside of Bridgeport CA. 

Relaxing pools at Travertine Hot Springs....just the ticket to get the
Zombie stench off (and a red eye flight out of Anchorage)

AWV in the Alabama Hills

Arrived in Cal. City and did the last minute stuff with Mike & Ginny, now it's time for the drive to LAX and the big flight over the pond.

Mike hiding when he heard me driving up to the house....

Watch out Vietnam......Here we come...
(Note that the trees are taller)