Varanasi intensity

  Hello strangers...I mean friends and family. I think I've probably broken the first rule of blogging, which is to post regularly if you expect people to read what you share. But I must say that traveling without a computer and trying to access one as we move about and through all the electrical outages has been quite a challenge for me. 

  We're currently in Varkala, Kerala, India where there is lots of sun, sand and surf. But, my post won't be about that yet. I've some catching up to do. Stretch just posted the last section of our trek in Nepal with comments from me added in.

  Since Nepal we headed back into India to Varanasi. This is where the Hindu come to die and/or have their cremated ashes scattered into the Ganges River.  It is their belief that in doing so this will end their cycle of reincarnation and they will reach nirvana. We stayed in a nice place above the ghats (steps down to the river). There were ceremonies conducted every evening to sent the deceased's spirit on. It involved elaborate dancing, bell ringing, fire, incense, and music.

Dancers for the deceased

The funeral ceremony was separate.  We observed various stages of the family carrying the body of the decease through the streets on a bamboo stretcher, covered in a mostly gold shroud. When they reached the river, the body was submerged in the water. After purchasing as much special kind of wood as the family can afford  the body was placed on the funeral pyre and cremated. Nearby a son had his head shaven, then set a clay pot of water on the fire when it was close to ashes. Out of respect for the families, no picture were taken.

Stacks of wood ready to be weighed and purchased for a funeral pyre.

The city was focused around the holy river, as it has been for centurys. Every morning people were down bathing in the water, taking boat rides, or making puja (offerings).  I found it to be contradictive though - with all the sacredness, there was also lots of uncleanliness in most public places.

Morning bathing. People all had different ghats they would go to. I can't tell you much about that, but there were lots of ghats.

Walking through the old part of the city was facinating; narrow alley, old buildings, tiny shops, cows, dogs, and motorcycles with both the unpleasent smells of waste and the aromic fragrance of cooking.

Doorways like this, with a small entrance were not for a dog. No way! These were to insure that you bowed as you entered the building.

This backstreet shop made delicious smelling food. But with all the washing and cooking water on the streets coming from the Ganges, I decided it was best not to eat here.

So, to get back into the flavors of India, I took a cooking class. It was just me and the lady who gave a demonstration in her little kitchen. It was amazing what she whipped out in an hour and a half. I got to stir a pot once... but mostly took photos as trying to keep up with writing notes became impossible. I was pleased  all the ingredients she used I can get at home.

Paneer simmering in ghee and cumin seed

It was so wonderful, having to eat that lusious meal myself. She would wait for her husband to come home for lunch @ 3:00 and they'd eat the rest of it then.   I do have a photo...but this computer is taking forever to load images, and Stretch has gone to have a beer. So, I'm out of here!
More soon, I promise.

The Sardus can be very colorful and are looking for new
ways to charge you for taking their pictures. Basically
they are Hindu pilgrims that locals support to be on
their spiritual quest, but there is better money in
gringos....  SGD

This Sardu was all about photo ops.....SGD

The true Sardus just kept to their business
and were part of the amazing drama of
Varansi! SGD

Sunrise and boat rides were magic time on the mighty Ganga river...SGD

Temples views and old stuff on the river Ganga
SGD

What could be more spiritual than the Ganga
river, Varanasi and a Brahma cow? SGD

Henna Becky ? SGD

The colors of Varanasi....SGD